Click Here for our handy installation manual.

Please read these instructions before attempting to install your fence. While installation of your fence is relatively easy, these instructions should eliminate any guess work.

 

 

Materials Needed:

 

  • Stakes
  • String
  • Measuring Tape
  • Rubber Mallet
  • Post Hole Digger
  • Level
  • Concrete Mix
  • Hacksaw
  • Hex-Head Driver

 

Before you begin installing your fence

 

  • Establish your fence line by staking out the area to be enclosed and attaching a guide string to the stakes. Make sure the fence is set back from the property line as required by local codes.

  • Seperate and identify your posts. There are three types of posts: Line, End/Gate, and Corner posts. The horizontal rails of the fence sections fit into the holes punched in the posts. Line posts have holes punched on opposite sides. Corner posts have adjacent sides punched. End posts have holes on only one side. Gate posts are the same as End posts, but the post walls are twice as thick to support the weight and latching of a gate.

  • Gates and sections should be installed so that the bottom of the fence is about 2"-3" above the ground level. This will allow the grass under the fence to be easily trimmed.

    48" height fence uses a 72" long post. If you leave a 2" to 3" gap under the fence the range of post depth would be 21"-22".

    54" height fence uses a 79" long post. If you leave a 2" to 3" gap under the fence the range of post depth would be 22"-23".

    60" height fence uses a 84" long post. If you leave a 2" to 3" gap under the fence the range of post depth would be 21"-22".

    72" height fence uses a 79" long post. If you leave a 2" to 3" gap under the fence the range of post depth would be 21"-22".

  • All screws in the fence sections and the posts should be installed on the same side (normally the inside of the enclosed area for a neater appearance when you are done.

  • When you need less than a full section to complete a line of fence, cut it to size using a hacksaw. Notch the cut ends of the horizontal rails so they will fit inside the post. Use a factory notch as a guide.

  • Mix the concrete for the post holes on the dry side to allow the posts to set faster and to give additional support when installing the fence section.

Caution: The concrete footing must extend below the frost line in areas where freezing of the ground can cause the posts to "heave." The posts themselves do not have to go below the frost line for proper installation.

 

Fence Installation

 

  1. Install a pair of gate posts first. (If you don't have any gates, then start with an end or corner post). Dig the post holes and set the posts into them. Fill the holes with concrete and tamp down around each post so the concrete is about 2" below ground level. The gate will be attached after the concrete has set. The opening between the posts should equal the size of the gate that was ordered, i.e., a 48'" gate fits into a 48" wide opening.

  2. Repeat this procedure for all other gate posts that are not in the same straight line of fence. Gates that are in the same line will be installed when the fence reaches their location.

  3. After the gate posts are set, the first line of fence is ready to be installed. Dig up to 8 holes for the line posts along the fence line.

  4. To install the fence, slide the horizontal rails of a section into the punched holes of the post installed in Step 1 as far as the notched end of the rails will allow. Place a line post into the next post hole, and slide the line post onto the horizontal rails of the section as far as possible. Pour concrete around the line post. Check that the post is plumb and aligned with the guide string. Tamp it down to hold the post in position. Leave the concrete about 2" below the ground level.

    Note: Corner posts require the horizontal rails of one section to be specially cut to allow both sections to fit into the post. A 1/2" x 1/2" piece must be removed from the end of the rails.


  5. When you have 6-8 sections installed, align the fence by sighting along the top horizontal rails. When correctly aligned, the rails will appear to be one continuous line. Also, the posts will appear to be one when viewed from the end of the fence line. Continue in this manner until all fence sections are installed.

    Caution: Make sure that the posts are parallel to the pickets in the sections, otherwise the installation will appear very sloppy.


  6. After the concrete has set, fasten the rails to the posts using the self-drilling screws.

    Caution: Do not over tighten the self-drilling screws - you can break them. If you use a powered hex-head driver, adjust the clutch to prevent the screws from marring the finish or denting the post.


  7. Fill in the top of the post holes with dirt and grass so the fence will look like it's been there for years. Your fence installation is now complete!

 

Gate Installation

 

Once the concrete has set around the gate posts, you can install the gates. Proper installation will result in approximately a 1/2" space between the gate and each of the gate posts.

 

  1. Before fastening the hinges, decide how the gate will be mounted and how it will open. If the gate will be hinged on the left and open toward you, mount the hinges so that the hinge springs are on top. The springs must also be on top if the gate will be hinged right and open away from you. If you want the gate to open the other way, then the hinge springs must be on the bottom.

  2. Attach each hinge to the gate post using three of the self-drilling screws provided. The post mounting plate attaches to the post on the inside of the gate opening. Next, fasten the gate to each hinge using four more screws. Mount one hinge near the top rail of the gate and the other near the bottom rail to distribute the weight of the gate evenly. Make sure the hinges line up with each other to prevent them from binding. The gate should now swing freely.

    Caution: If the hinges are not in line with each other, the gate will not close by itself.


  3. Mount the latch according to its specific instructions.

    Note: If you are hanging a gate on a surface other than a post, such as a column, then use the spacer that is provided with the hinge to fill in the 1/8" gap behind the post mounting plate. This is not required if the hinge is attached to a post. Fasten the hinge to the surface using the proper lag bolts (not provided). It may be necessary to enlarge the holes in the plates larger to accept these bolts.


  4. With the hinges and latch now mounted, you may have to adjust the spring tension in the hinges to allow the gate to close and latch by itself. The hinge tension, set at our factory, allows most gates to work properly. To change the tension, use a wrench or pliers to hold the nut on the hinge rod while you remove the tension screw from the hinge. Move the nut about 1/4" turn to increase or decrease the tension. Replace the tension screw into the pre-drilled hole in the center of the hinge. Repeat this procedure for the other hinge. Adjust the tension until the gate closes and latches correctly.

    Caution: There must be equal tension on both hinge springs for proper operation of the gate.


  5. For double drive gates, the drop rods are installed last. Fasten one of the tow "guides" to the face of one side of the gate frame near the bottom of the latch side. Place the other guide about halfway up the gate side in line with the first one. Insert the drop rod through the two guides and adjust them for smooth operation. Finally, mount the small "hook" to hold the rod in the up position. Make sure the drop rod clears the ground when the gate opens.

    Note: If the gate will be used with an operator or as part of a double drive gate, then remove the tension screw from the hinge, release all of the tension, and replace the screw. The tension screw must be attached to the hinge rod, even if there is no tension needed on the hinge.


 

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